Ancient Mariners on a jaunt down river

1 June 2013 - the first day of winter

The Ancient Mariners are a (fairly) hardy lot, so undeterred by the arrival of winter we assembled at the BRSC to prepare for a 0900 start down the river from Harwood to Iluka via Yamba. The river was blanketed in a thick but very pretty fog which Richard Sutherland caught in the photo below. Soon the fog dispersed but there was barely a whisper of wind. All three boats set off optimistically hoisting their mainsails but mainly for show. I admit we all motored at least half way to the Goodwood mark. Then, just as I was getting fed up with the noise of our outboard, there was enough following wind to let us silently ghost downstream to our smoko break at the beach just east of the Goodwood Wharf.

Richard Sutherland captures morning mist at Harwood

Pam and Noela motor sailing 

John Woods plus Ted the poodle also motor sailing

Rick and Rob in Ally Oop motor sailing as well

The boating map shows a narrow channel through the sandbanks from the Goodwood wharf across the river then between Palmers Island and Freeburn Island to Yamba Shores Tavern. John led the way and we all made it without even touching the bottom. We kept on between Rabbit Island and Pelican Island and followed the channel markers through the eastern gap in Middle Wall, across the estuary and into Iluka Harbour for lunch. We had to motor sail again most of the way but finally had a short reach under sail. Then we go our separate ways, John, Rick and Rob head back to Harwood. Noela and I stay in Iluka overnight intending to head back the following day

The light so different to summer on the first day of winter

Next morning I checked the forecast "13 knot SW wind" no mention of squalls. We set off at noon under the iron headsail and once out of the harbour decided to sail despite the little wind there was being right on the nose. We tacked back and forth against the never ending ebb. According to the tide chart the tide had turned several hours earlier. All the while we watched two Big Black Storm clouds forming, one to the south and the other to the west and looking as if they would soon join up right over us. They did. We were caught in a strong SW squall that lasted at least 15 mins. Visibility down to a few metres and we hurtled along getting totally drenched. In retrospect it was exhilarating although I am not sure if Noela would say the same. Then, equally suddenly, it was all over. Wind gone and we had to resort to the iron headsail again if we were to make Harwood in time to pack up and get home before dusk.

On the BRSC notice board

Mooloolaba to Great Keppel aboard SV Bardoo

Bardoo was designed by Sparkman Stevens and built by Halverson in their yards at Bobbin Head in 1973 and launched in 1974.

She is a 52′ Triple Planked Canadian Oregon Carvel Ketch with a 14’11 beam and 7′ draft.

Yes, we did set all these sails and the huge MPS.

www.bardoo.net  - see "sailing adventures" "Mooloolaba to Keppel"

Owners Dave and Linda Ashendon

The new owners, Dave and Linda, have just completed a major 2 year refit and are at last reaping the rewards. I was lucky enough to be invited to join them as crew from Mooloolaba to Great Keppel. Bardoo is truly magnificent and I had one of the best times ever afloat. Many, many thanks to you both. 

25 April  Mooloolaba to Double Island Point, 12 hrs, moderate SE wind.

26 April  Double Island Point to Lady Elliot Island, 25 hrs, moderate SE wind

27 April at Lady Elliot Island in very rolly anchorage

28 April  Lady Elliot Island to Lady Musgrove Island, 4.5 hrs, moderate SE wind

29 April  Anchored in lagoon at Lady Musgrove Island - good diving and snorkelling

30 April  Short sail out of lagoon as unsafe lee shore with strong wind warning to Fairfax Islet

1 May    Fairfax Islet to North West Island, 11 hrs, light to moderate wind, perfect spinnaker run

2 May    North West Island to Great Keppel Island, 41 nm,10 hrs,light to moderate spinnaker run

3 May    Second Bay, Great Keppel Island, anchored sheltering from 30 kn SE wind

4 May    Wind moderates and sail 7 nm to Great Keppel Island Marina at Rosslyn Bay so Dave's son can visit.

5 May  Leave marina and anchor off Yepoon Sailing Club in delightful calm water. During the night a horrible and unexpected swell stopped us all sleeping.

6 May    Early morning motored back to the marina in time to buy stores in Yepoon and wait for new crew Peter and Diana to arrive.

7 May    Leave marina and sail for 4 hrs in 35 kn on the nose winds back to Great Keppel Island. Bardoo and crew handled it well.

8 May    Anchored at Great Keppel. Still wind 30+ knots. Fishing.

9 May    Anchored at Great Keppel. Still wind 30+ knots

10 May   Repeat of day before.

11 May   Repeat of day before and still forecast of 30 knot winds for next day

12 May   Sail 7 nm back to Keppel Bay Marina in 30+ knots wind - exhilarating sail.

13 May   The end - until next time.

Linda took all the photos except the first one and the one of the two of them 

 

 

 

The MPS and the mizzen staysail blew out but the spinnaker survived . 

These sails were well past their use-by-date and needed replacement anyway. Now Linda is pondering on the design for the new MPS and spinnaker.

 

We ate Dave's 16 kg wahoo for many nights

 

 

I know that several weeks in a confined space with people one hardly knows is many peoples idea of hell - but I'd do it again any time on a yacht like Bardoo and with owners like the Ashendons.

Our land of drought and flooding rains

Why hasn't Little Dragon been sailing since Christmas?  Anita's photo says it all.

Anita Ostenfeld's photograph of BRSC surrounded by floods

The Clarence River has suffered 3 major floods between Christmas and Easter 2013. Fortunately the clubhouse itself and Dick's donga stayed just above water level but the local club members spent many days hosing mud out of the boat sheds.

Climate change anyone?



Tin Dragon just won't tack

Savaad and Noela attempting to tack Tin Dragon

It was the Ides of March, time for the 11th International Tin Canoe Regatta at Iluka, which is a pretentious tongue-in-cheek title given to an informal gathering of enthusiasts intent on keeping alive an old tradition - sailing home made tin canoes. It was the third time that Savaad and I took Tin Dragon along and Noela came as forward hand and showed great ability bailing. There was a light southerly breeze until around noon on Sunday, just right for 10 tin canoes but then .....

Savaad sailed the first non-race with Noela crewing and I sailed the second non-race with Savaad crewing. There is no shadow of doubt that, in keeping with the spirit of the non-event, we had great fun despite a capsize in about 1 knot of wind and a close encounter with the new entrant Puff, see the photo below. But Tin Canoe just wouldn't tack and at times wouldn't even gybe. Really frustrating. We didn't even complete one round of the course when the leaders had completed 2 or even 3. Ignominy.

Close encounter between Puff and Tin Dragon

Before non-race 3 we gave Tin Dragon a sprit and back stay in a futile attempt to make her steerable. Savaad and Noela had an exhilarating first leg and absolutely flew across the harbour, they reckon they were first to the mark near the rock wall (a claim that is hotly contested). At that very moment a southerly buster struck. Canoes scattered in all directions, some crashed onto  the rock wall, some scudded right up to the far end of the harbour, others were barely visible to anxious watchers on the shore being largely submerged, one seemed intent on exiting the harbour in the direction of Yamba. The rescue boat had its work cut out. However Tin Dragon bravely limped back to the starting point unaided despite being water logged. Noela reports they just couldn't stop laughing.

Rob's tin canoe Odd Job has a drop rudder and drop keel

Rob's tin canoe Outrigorous drop keel

Rob's tin canoe Outrigorous has an excellent rudder

We are determined to have Tin Dragon steerable next year, but how? The main suggestions are a larger rudder and a drop centre board.  Both Rob's tin canoes sailed brilliantly and isn't imitation the best form of flattery?

PS Please Shielas get it together for next year, we missed you!

PPS We were awarded the Hard Luck Trophy.

The sardine tin cunningly contains tin, sailcloth, bamboo, balsa - what more can we need for a refit? (answer: cut up inner tubes).

Wooden Boat Festival in Hobart February 2013

Little Dragon is sulking. I told her that her little strips of bright work don't make her a wooden boat. She stayed in the yard while I flew over to Hobart.

I had been invited to crew on Bardoo in the Parade of Sail opening the Wooden Boat Festival and on the rally which circumnavigates Tasmania starting a couple of days after the Festival. However the owners, David and Linda Ashenden, had to pull out due to a family crisis.

Bardoo was designed by Sparkman Stevens and built by Halverson in their Bobbin Head yard in 1973. She is a 52' triple planked Canadian oregon carvel ketch.

 

My grandfather racing his Burnham-on-Crouch 24' One Design in 1909

I arrived in Hobart a landlubber but James Wood offered me the opportunity to crew on Windward II for the opening Parade of Sail. It made the Festival for me - no longer a landlubber. The forecast predicted winds up to about 15 knots but by late afternoon it was blowing at least 24 knots and gusting 30 knots. With only one staysail set we were flying. I recognised the design as similar to one my grandfather used to race in 1909 (see above). I was correct. Norman Dallimore, who I met when I was a child in Burnham-on- Crouch, designed both.

 

Huon Pine 43'11" carvel cutter built 1929 designed by Norman Dallimore

 



Sam Woods and Pam after the opening Parade of Sail

I was staying with my old friends Sally and Mike in Hobart. Sally, now a Chinese Australian, wanted to celebrate Chinese New Year on Sunday 10 February so I offered them a New Year gift - an afternoon cruise on James Craig. The James Craig is magnificent, but she is iron not wooden. We had a great time. After motoring down the Derwent head to wind we turned and with the wind behind us the crew broke out 4 square sails so we were able to sail majestically back to our berth alongside Princes Wharf.

 

James Craig is 179'8" Iron Barque built in England in 1874 and lovingly restored in Sydney after sinking in Recherche Bay. In 2001 she hoisted all 21 sails for the first time in 80 years.

 



I was standing on the wharf admiring "The Admiral", the oldest rowing ferry in Australia, built in 1865 when I realised that they were taking on passengers so I jumped at the opportunity. Initially we were rowed round Constitution Dock basking in reflected glory as the crowds busily snapped us. Then the cox asked for volunteers to row and of course I put my hand up.

 

 

The Wooden Boat Festival ends with a second Parade of Sail and I was keen to get afloat again, so I signed up with Windeward Bound.



 

Windeward Bound is 81'0" modern wooden Brigantine run by a trust providing youth development under sail programmes for all Australians.

Captain Sarah Parry, Master of Windeward Bound

 

This Wooden Boat Festival was the largest ever, almost 600 entrants. with about 340 in the opening Parade of Sail, ranging from tiny dinghies to tall ships and everything inbetween, some recently built and others lovingly restored classics such as Windward II. Here are just a few:

 

Notorious replica 15 century Portugese caravel built by Graeme Wylie in Melbourne (below)





 

 

 

Christmas holidays at Harwood

What a privilege, I can use the BRSC during the Christmas holiday period. Perfect tranquility. A world away from the holiday madness in Byron Bay or even the somewhat lesser crowds at Iluka. During my 3 full days sailing I doubt I saw more than a dozen sailing boats, a few tinnies, dolphins and flotillas of large white jellyfish. Robert and Liz were the only other members staying overnight and Martin and Theresa crewed on Little Dragon for the first couple of days then Noela for the final day. The weather was kind to us, not too hot considering it was midsummer and winds varying from gentle to moderate mainly southerly. There were major storms to the north and west but although at times it looked ominous they stayed away from the lower Clarence.

27th December

Martin and Theresa announced over a much needed cuppa at the end of the day that they had enjoyed themselves  and admittedly we had an exhilarating sail running downriver on the ebb. However my personal debrief was that I had spent the day averting a series of potential crises. I made a hash of getting off the lee shore which was compounded by the centre plate winch cable jamming, then the mainsail stuck as we tried to hoist. The next incident was when we rashly followed John and Gary up a narrow channel inside the sandbank off Folbigg Pt. for lunch. When the depth went down to 1.3m on an ebb I gave up and anchored in deeper water but in the process got the anchor line caught round the plate. While freeing the line I slipped and hurt my foot - for a while I feared seriously. By that time I had had more than enough drama for one day so we motored most of the way back to Harwood against both wind and tide.

Martin and Theresa

28th December
There was a gentle southerly and it was very high tide at 12 noon (full moon). John and Gary were keen to sail upstream and float back on the ebb during the afternoon. No worries for them as they easily fit under the 8.6m Harwood Bridge. They were convinced I could get under "easily". I have done it once at dead low tide and I was told by fisherman that there was less than a foot of clearance. It was terrifying.

My mast is 6.8m and add 1.30m from waterline to mast step plus .25 for the wind indicator. That makes 8.35m. 0.25m is not sufficient margin for me to feel safe. My insurance company have kindly sponsored one new mast and I am not keen to ask them for a second.

I reluctantly agreed to give it a go. Martin, Theresa and I sailed up to the bridge then dropped the sails and at exactly noon proceeded very cautiously under motor. Theresa was sitting at the bow clutching the boat hook with instructions to try and see if we could get under. Martin and I stayed in the cockpit. When we were less than a metre away Martin and I decided simultaneously and separately that we wouldn't make it by about half a metre. Martin did a great job of reversing out of harm's way.

After that adrenalin producing escapade the slight wind died away and we drifted back to the clubhouse. John, Gary and Robert were still sure that we were just chicken. I am willing to give it a go again at high tide with one of them aboard on condition that they guarantee me a new mast if they are wrong!

That evening there was the most stunning sunset I have ever seen at Harwood. The river was bathed in pink light and finally up towards the bridge it turned ruby red. Strangely the next night I was ready to enjoy a repeat performance but no sunset display at all.

29th December
Change of crew - Martin and Theresa left and Noela came down for the day. There was much more wind than the day before, still southerly but it swung more towards the north later in the day. It made even more sense than the previous day to sail upriver. So a new plan. I dropped the mast but left it attached to the mast step and then towed Little Dragon to the ramp in front of the Harwood Hotel. As she was still half rigged it didn't take long to get the mast up again and ready to launch.

It was worth the effort as we had a splendid sail up the river, past Maclean and on to lunch in the Broadwater before turning back to the ramp at Harwood Hotel. We dropped the mast and packed up before driving the short distance back to the BRSC. Noela and I were glad that Robert and Gary came along to help us launch as it wouldn't have been easy on our own.

Packed up at home

Another go at single handed sailing



Saturday  15th December was BRSC's Xmas party and social sail. Usually the juniors enjoy being towed up and down the river on rubber rings behind the rescue launch. This year I suspect that they were rather put off by the flotillas of large white jellyfish in the river. The seniors (mostly Ancient Mariners) seemed far more interested in relaxing on the deck over an excellent lunch than social sailing. I suppose I shouldn't critisise as they have been racing every single Saturday afternoon for months. So as I couldn't find anyone keen to crew I decided to head off single handed. There was only a light breeze. I really enjoyed myself but I agree with comments Colin made later that Little Dragon could be modified to make single handed sailing easier.

 On Sunday Nicky came down for the day with her mother Joy who is visiting from England. Like the day before after a very hot and still morning a light breeze sprang up in time for a gentle afternoon sail. Nicky's mother is a seasoned yachtswoman having sailed round the world with her husband some years ago.

A shame job

 I have been eyeing up this Puffin Pacer for a while. The BRSC has a couple which are used for sail training. It is a long while since I have been dinghy sailing and I am even less agile than usual at present. However there was a gentle breeze and I decided the time had come to give it a go.

 

Luckily Brodie (11 years old) came along to crew for me. All went well for a while.  We tacked back and forth across the river getting round the bend out of sight of the clubhouse (and the rescue boat). The breeze increased from gentle to moderate and I tangled my foot in the main sheet as we tacked. Capsize. No problem for Brodie. He quickly had the boat upright and was back on board. He couldn't understand why I didn't join him but suggested that he sail the boat towards the bank. I doubt I could have got back on board even if a shark was nibbling my toes. He towed me astern and I was surprised at how fast we were going, fast enough to pull off my loose fitting trousers. I hoped that I would manage to keep my underpants on and not lose that last shred of dignity (I did). 

 

At the bank I jumped aboard and off we sailed a second time but we hadn't gone far when we capsized again. I got the boat head to wind and Brodie got it upright and jumped aboard. Soon we were back at the bank. This time I decided that Brodie had well and truly earned the right to sail the boat back to the clubhouse which he did with great aplomb.  I demoted myself to crew. Well done Brodie.

 

I will think very carefully before heading out in a dinghy again.